FeelOri Glossary of Indian Fashion & Heritage Jewellery

FeelOri presents a comprehensive glossary of Indian fashion jewellery, bridal ornaments, and heritage craftsmanship techniques. Founded by Pooja Tunk and rooted in 65+ years of family heritage in Hyderabad, we bring you authentic knowledge of Kundan, Polki, Meenakari, Victorian, Temple, CZ, and Pearl jewellery. Use this guide to understand the art, history, and beauty behind India's finest ornament traditions.

Techniques & Styles

Fashion Jewellery Fashion Jewellery
Non-precious jewellery designed to complement fashion trends and occasions. Unlike fine jewellery, fashion jewellery uses base metals, plating, and semi-precious stones to offer style at accessible prices. FeelOri specializes in high-quality fashion jewellery that rivals the look of traditional gold ornaments while being practical for daily wear and gifting.
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Imitation Jewellery Imitation Jewellery
Also called "artificial jewellery" or "costume jewellery," this refers to ornaments designed to replicate the appearance of fine jewellery using non-precious materials. In India, high-quality imitation jewellery is a cultural staple for weddings, festivals, and daily wear, offering the grandeur of gold and diamonds without the associated costs or security concerns.
Handcrafted Jewellery Handcrafted Jewellery
Jewellery made by skilled artisans using traditional hand techniques rather than mass manufacturing. Each piece carries unique characteristics and slight variations that machine-made pieces cannot replicate. FeelOri works with artisan families in Hyderabad who have practiced these crafts for generations.
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Bridal Jewellery Bridal Jewellery
Complete jewellery sets designed for Indian weddings, typically including necklaces, earrings, maang tikka, nose ring, bangles, and haath phool. Bridal sets vary by region—North Indian brides favor Kundan and Polki, while South Indian brides prefer temple jewellery. FeelOri offers both traditions with modern sensibilities.
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Fusion Jewellery Fusion Jewellery
Contemporary designs that blend traditional Indian motifs with Western aesthetics. Fusion jewellery appeals to modern women who want cultural elements in everyday-wearable formats—think Kundan studs instead of heavy jhumkas, or delicate temple-style pendants on minimal chains.
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Kundan & Polki Jewellery

Kundan Jewellery Kundan Jewellery
Kundan is the ancient Indian art of setting gemstones in a gold framework using refined gold foil (kundan). Originating from Rajasthan and Gujarat, this technique involves placing stones into individual cells and securing them with gold strips pressed into place. The result is a seamless, mirror-like setting that maximizes stone brilliance. FeelOri's Kundan collection honors this 2,500-year-old craft with contemporary designs.
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Polki Jewellery Polki Jewellery
Polki refers to uncut, natural diamonds used in their raw, unfaceted state. Unlike brilliant-cut diamonds, Polki stones retain their organic, flat-surfaced beauty. Set using the Kundan technique, Polki jewellery is considered the most regal form of Indian bridal adornment. Each Polki stone is unique, making every piece one-of-a-kind. FeelOri offers Polki-inspired designs using high-quality simulants.
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Jadau Jewellery Jadau Jewellery
Jadau is the umbrella term for the Mughal-era jewellery technique where gemstones are embedded into gold with lac (natural resin) as a base. It encompasses both Kundan (glass/semi-precious stones) and Polki (uncut diamonds). Jadau pieces are reversible—front features stones, back features Meenakari enamel work. The craft is UNESCO-recognized and centered in Bikaner, Rajasthan.
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Thappa Kundan Thappa Kundan
A more affordable variation of traditional Kundan where stones are set using a stamping technique rather than individual foil work. Thappa Kundan offers the visual appeal of Kundan jewellery at lower price points, making it popular for fashion and daily wear.
Vilandi Polki Vilandi Polki
Also called "Belgian Polki," Vilandi refers to polished uncut diamonds with enhanced clarity. While traditional Polki is completely raw, Vilandi undergoes minimal polishing to improve light reflection while maintaining the organic, uncut aesthetic.

Meenakari & Enamel Work

Meenakari Jewellery Meenakari Jewellery
Meenakari is the ancient art of enameling—fusing powdered glass onto metal surfaces to create vibrant, permanent colors. Persian artisans brought this technique to India during the Mughal era, and it flourished in Rajasthan under royal patronage. Traditional Meenakari uses five colors: white (safed), red (laal), green (sabz), blue (neela), and occasionally yellow. The reverse side of Kundan jewellery typically features Meenakari work.
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Jaipur Meenakari Jaipur Meenakari
The most renowned form of Indian enamel work, perfected by artisans in Jaipur over centuries. Jaipur Meenakari is distinguished by its intricate floral patterns, use of peacock motifs, and the signature combination of red and green on gold. It's applied to the back of Kundan pieces, making them reversible.
Enamel Jewellery Enamel Jewellery
A broader category encompassing all jewellery featuring vitreous enamel (glass powder fused to metal). While Meenakari is a specific Indian tradition, enamel jewellery includes various global techniques like French champlevé and Japanese cloisonné. Modern enamel fashion jewellery offers colorful, durable pieces at accessible prices.
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Gulabi Meenakari Gulabi Meenakari
"Pink enamel work" originating from Varanasi (Banaras). Unlike Jaipur's opaque enamels, Gulabi Meenakari uses transparent pink enamel over engraved gold, creating a rose-tinted, three-dimensional effect. It's considered more delicate and is often used in lightweight pieces.
Thewa Jewellery Thewa Jewellery
A unique Rajasthani art form where intricately designed gold sheets are fused onto colored glass. Thewa pieces depict miniature paintings—often Mughal court scenes, hunting expeditions, or Krishna leela—framed in gold. The Soni family of Pratapgarh holds the patent to this 400-year-old technique.

Victorian & Vintage Styles

Victorian Jewellery Victorian Jewellery
Inspired by designs popular during Queen Victoria's reign (1837-1901), Victorian jewellery features romantic motifs like hearts, flowers, bows, and serpents. Indian Victorian jewellery adapts these Western aesthetics with local craftsmanship, combining filigree work, colored stones, and antique gold finishes. FeelOri's Victorian collection offers Indo-Western elegance.
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Antique Jewellery Antique Jewellery
Jewellery with an aged, heirloom appearance achieved through specialized finishing techniques. Antique gold polish gives pieces a warm, reddish-brown patina that reduces glare and creates a vintage aesthetic. Popular for traditional occasions where a heritage look is desired.
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Oxidized Jewellery Oxidized Jewellery
Silver or silver-plated jewellery deliberately darkened through oxidation to create contrast and highlight intricate details. Oxidized jewellery has become hugely popular for its bohemian, artistic appeal. It pairs beautifully with cotton sarees, Indo-Western outfits, and casual ethnic wear.
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German Silver German Silver Jewellery
An alloy of copper, zinc, and nickel that resembles silver in appearance. German silver (also called nickel silver) is widely used in tribal and oxidized jewellery due to its durability and affordability. Note: It contains no actual silver despite the name.
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Filigree Jewellery Filigree Jewellery
Intricate metalwork using thin wires twisted and soldered into delicate patterns. Indian filigree (called "Tarkashi" in Odisha and "Jaali" in other regions) creates lace-like designs in silver or gold. This ancient technique produces lightweight yet visually elaborate pieces.

Temple Jewellery

Temple Jewellery Temple Jewellery
Traditional South Indian jewellery originally created for adorning Hindu temple deities. Characterized by gold-plated finishes, kemp stone settings, and motifs of gods and goddesses—especially Lakshmi. Temple jewellery was later adopted by Bharatanatyam dancers and has become a staple for South Indian brides.
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Kemp Stones Kemp Stones
Ruby-red and emerald-green glass stones that define authentic temple jewellery aesthetics. Named after the English word "camp" (referring to their reflective backing), kemp stones are foil-backed to enhance their glow. They're also called Kempu in Kannada.
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Lakshmi Jewellery Lakshmi Jewellery
Jewellery featuring the image of Goddess Lakshmi, the Hindu deity of wealth and prosperity. Lakshmi motifs are central to temple jewellery—appearing on coin necklaces (Kasumalai), long chains (Lakshmi Haaram), and pendants. Considered highly auspicious for weddings and festivals.
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Nagas Jewellery Nagas Jewellery
Temple jewellery featuring the sacred serpent (Naga) motif. Snakes hold deep religious significance in Hinduism, representing Kundalini energy, Lord Shiva, and fertility. Nagas designs appear in armlets, necklaces, and hair ornaments.
One Gram Gold One Gram Gold Jewellery
High-quality gold-plated jewellery where approximately one gram of gold is used to coat base metal pieces. Offers the rich appearance of solid gold temple jewellery at a fraction of the cost, with better durability than regular gold plating.
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CZ & American Diamond Jewellery

CZ Jewellery CZ (Cubic Zirconia) Jewellery
Jewellery set with Cubic Zirconia—a lab-created crystalline material that closely mimics the optical properties of diamonds. CZ offers exceptional brilliance, fire, and clarity at a fraction of diamond prices. FeelOri's CZ collections combine these sparkling stones with Indian design sensibilities.
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American Diamond American Diamond (AD) Jewellery
The Indian trade name for Cubic Zirconia. "American Diamond" emphasizes the stone's diamond-like qualities while clearly distinguishing it from natural diamonds. AD jewellery has become the go-to choice for engagement functions, cocktail parties, and receptions.
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Swarovski Crystal Swarovski Crystal Jewellery
Premium fashion jewellery featuring precision-cut crystals from the Austrian brand Swarovski. Known for exceptional clarity and rainbow light refraction, Swarovski elements add luxury to fashion jewellery without the cost of precious stones.
Moissanite Moissanite Jewellery
Lab-created silicon carbide gemstones with more fire (rainbow sparkle) than diamonds. Moissanite has gained popularity as an ethical, affordable alternative for engagement rings and fine fashion jewellery. It ranks 9.25 on the Mohs hardness scale, second only to diamond.
Zircon Zircon (Natural)
Not to be confused with Cubic Zirconia, natural zircon is a genuine gemstone found in various colors. Blue zircon is especially popular as an affordable alternative to blue topaz or aquamarine. Zircon has been used in jewellery for thousands of years.

Pearls & Mother of Pearl

Pearl Jewellery Pearl Jewellery
Timeless organic gems formed inside mollusks, pearls have adorned royalty for millennia. Pearl jewellery ranges from classic single strands to elaborate multi-layered designs. FeelOri offers freshwater pearl, shell pearl, and Hyderabadi pearl collections that honor the city's 400-year pearl trading heritage.
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Hyderabadi Pearls Hyderabadi Pearls
Pearls traded, processed, and strung in Hyderabad—historically India's pearl capital. The Nizams of Hyderabad were legendary pearl collectors, and the city's Laad Bazaar remains famous for pearl jewellery. FeelOri continues this heritage through our Hyderabad workshop.
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Freshwater Pearls Freshwater Pearls
Pearls cultivated in freshwater mussels, primarily in China. Freshwater pearls come in various shapes (round, baroque, rice) and natural colors (white, pink, lavender). They offer excellent value compared to saltwater varieties while maintaining beautiful luster.
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Shell Pearls Shell Pearls
Man-made pearls created by coating mother-of-pearl nuclei with pearl essence. High-quality shell pearls are virtually indistinguishable from cultured pearls, offering perfect roundness and consistent color at lower prices. Ideal for fashion jewellery.
Mother of Pearl Mother of Pearl (MOP)
The iridescent inner layer of mollusk shells, also called nacre. Mother of Pearl is carved or sliced into cabochons, inlays, and pendants. Its rainbow sheen (orient) makes it popular for earrings, buttons, and decorative elements. MOP is the same material that forms pearls.
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Baroque Pearls Baroque Pearls
Irregularly shaped pearls with unique, organic forms. Unlike perfectly round pearls, baroque pearls celebrate asymmetry. Each piece is one-of-a-kind, making them favorites for contemporary, artistic jewellery designs. Baroque pearls often cost less than round pearls of similar size.
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Basra Pearls Basra Pearls
Natural pearls historically sourced from the Persian Gulf near Basra, Iraq. True Basra pearls are extremely rare and valuable—most "Basra" pearls in Indian markets today are actually high-quality cultured pearls. The name has become synonymous with premium pearl quality.

Regional Jewellery Styles

Telangana Jewellery Telangana Traditional Jewellery
Distinctive jewellery styles from Telangana state, influenced by Nizam-era aesthetics. Includes Guttapusalu (pearl clusters), Pacchi work, and elaborate bridal sets. FeelOri proudly represents this heritage through our Hyderabad roots.
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Rajasthani Jewellery Rajasthani Jewellery
Bold, colorful jewellery from Rajasthan featuring Kundan, Meenakari, and Lac work. Rajasthani pieces are known for their size, vibrant enamels, and royal aesthetic. Includes iconic styles like Borla (head ornament), Aad (choker), and Bajuband (armlet).
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Punjabi Jewellery Punjabi Jewellery
Characterized by oversized, statement pieces—massive jhumkas, layered necklaces, and elaborate passa (side headpieces). Punjabi jewellery reflects the exuberant culture of the region. Gold-plated and Kundan styles dominate.
Bengali Jewellery Bengali Jewellery
Delicate, intricate gold work from West Bengal featuring unique designs like Shakha-Pola (red and white bangles), Jhumko (teardrop earrings), and Mukut (crown). Bengali jewellery emphasizes craftsmanship over stone settings.
Maharashtrian Jewellery Maharashtrian Jewellery
Traditional Marathi jewellery including Nath (large nose ring), Kolhapuri Saaj (beaded necklace), and Thushi (choker). Known for incorporating green glass beads and distinctive gold patterns. Essential for Maharashtrian weddings.
Assamese Jewellery Assamese Jewellery
Unique jewellery from Assam featuring Jonbiri (crescent pendant), Dhol Biri (drum-shaped beads), and Gam Kharu (traditional bangles). Assamese jewellery uses distinctive gold-work techniques and is integral to Bihu celebrations.

Ornament Types

Choker Necklace Choker Necklace
A close-fitting necklace worn at the base of the neck. In Indian jewellery, chokers form the first layer of bridal necklace sets. Available in Kundan, temple, CZ, and pearl styles—the choker is essential for achieving the traditional layered necklace look.
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Jhumka Earrings Jhumka / Jhumki Earrings
Iconic Indian bell-shaped drop earrings that swing gracefully with movement. Jhumkas originated in South India but are beloved across the subcontinent. From delicate everyday pairs to elaborate bridal designs, jhumkas are Indian fashion's most recognizable earring style.
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Maang Tikka Maang Tikka
A forehead ornament with a pendant that rests on the center parting of the hair. The maang tikka frames the face and is considered the crowning piece of Indian bridal jewellery. It represents the third eye chakra and is believed to protect the bride's energy.
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Bangles Bangles & Kadas
Rigid bracelets worn in multiples on both wrists. Bangles hold deep cultural significance in India—married women traditionally wear them as symbols of their matrimonial status. FeelOri offers glass, metal, Kundan, and stone-studded bangles.
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Haath Phool Haath Phool / Hand Harness
An ornate hand ornament connecting a bracelet to rings via decorative chains. Also called "panja" or "hathphool," this piece transforms hands into a visual statement. Essential for Indian brides and popular for sangeet and mehendi functions.
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Passa Passa / Jhoomar
A side headpiece worn over one ear, cascading down the side of the face. Originally a Mughal ornament for men, the passa evolved into a feminine bridal essential. It adds asymmetric drama to the bridal look.
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Nath Nath (Nose Ring)
Traditional nose ornament worn on the left nostril, often connected to the ear via a chain. Nath styles vary by region—Maharashtrian naths are large and elaborate, while Rajasthani naths feature delicate Kundan work. A bridal essential across India.
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Kamarband Kamarband / Waist Belt
Decorative waist chain or belt worn over sarees and lehengas. Also called "vaddanam" in South India. The kamarband accentuates the waist and prevents the saree from loosening. Available in chain styles and broader belt designs.
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Anklets Anklets / Payal
Ornamental chains or cuffs worn around the ankle. Indian payals often feature tiny bells (ghungroo) that create a pleasant sound while walking. Worn by married women as auspicious adornment and by dancers for rhythm.
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Materials & Finishes

Gold Plated Gold Plated Jewellery
Base metal jewellery coated with a thin layer of gold through electroplating. Gold plating offers the look of solid gold at accessible prices. Quality varies based on gold thickness (measured in microns) and base metal quality. FeelOri uses brass bases with thick gold plating for durability.
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Rose Gold Rose Gold Jewellery
Gold alloyed with copper to create a warm, pinkish hue. Rose gold has gained massive popularity for its romantic, feminine appearance. In fashion jewellery, rose gold plating achieves this look on base metals.
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Sterling Silver Sterling Silver (925)
An alloy containing 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals (usually copper) for strength. Sterling silver jewellery is hypoallergenic, durable, and can be gold-plated for a two-tone effect. The "925" stamp certifies authenticity.
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Brass Jewellery Brass Jewellery
Jewellery made from copper-zinc alloy that resembles gold in color. Brass is the most common base metal for Indian fashion jewellery due to its workability, durability, and affordability. Often gold-plated or oxidized for different finishes.
Matte Finish Matte Finish
A non-reflective, subdued surface finish that has gained popularity in contemporary jewellery. Matte gold offers a modern, understated elegance compared to traditional shiny polish. Particularly popular in fusion and minimalist designs.
Antique Finish Antique Finish
A specialized patina giving jewellery an aged, heirloom appearance. Achieved through chemical treatments that darken recesses while leaving raised areas bright. Creates visual depth and vintage character in traditional pieces.
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Rhodium Plating Rhodium Plating
A bright white metal coating that prevents tarnishing and adds a reflective, platinum-like finish. Rhodium plating is commonly applied to silver and white gold jewellery. It enhances CZ and diamond settings by maximizing light reflection.
Lac Jewellery Lac Jewellery
Traditional Rajasthani jewellery made by shaping heated lac (natural resin) around a wooden core, then decorating with glass, mirrors, and stones. Lac bangles and earrings are lightweight, colorful, and iconic for their folk aesthetic.